Tradition of Beaded Decoration in the Ukrainian Folk Costume: Reconstruction of the Second Stage (Based on the Materials of Western Regions of Ukraine)

Abstract

The article continues the previously started reconstruction of ethnic artistic tradition of beaded decoration in the Ukrainian folk costume. The authors’ vision of the second stage of development of this tradition (the end of the 19th– the middle of the 20th centuries) is presented. It was found that at the second stage of its development, the tradition of beaded decoration in the Ukrainian folk costume went through the phase of creative uplift. Ukrainian folk craftsmen considerably expanded the arsenal of technical as well as artistic and stylistic means of their creative works. The following techniques were used: typesetting, sewing “v prykrip“, stringing, weaving, embroidery, etc. The typology of beaded components of the folk costume expanded significantly. Alongside with overhead jewelry and headdresses, the beaded decoration emerged in the structure of several old and new components of clothes and accessories. By virtue of the implementation of the techniques of weaving and embroidery, artistic stylistics developed further. In the compositions of beaded components of the costume, apart from the motifs of geometric shapes, the motifs of geometrised shapes appeared, as well as the national symbols. The colouring of beaded artworks was significantly enriched. Successful development of all-Ukrainian and local features of folk art continued. The knowledge, accumulated by the authors, will be of a great interest to ethnologists, art historians as well as modern folk craftsmen of beaded artworks.