Topical Benefits of Two Fucoidan-Rich Extracts from Marine Macroalgae

J Fitton,Giorgio Dell'Acqua,Damien Stringer,Vicki-Anne Gardiner,Emma Davis,Samuel Karpiniec

doi:10.3390/cosmetics2020066

Abstract

Two concentrated and well-characterized fucoidan-rich extracts were investigated to determine their benefits in topical applications. An Undaria pinnatifida extract, containing 85% fucoidan, and a Fucus vesiculosus co-extract, containing 60% fucoidan and 30% polyphenol, were assessed in a number of in vitro assays to measure the effect of the extracts on enzyme inhibition, glycation, antioxidant activity and Sirtuin 1 (SIRT1) protein expression. Double-blind, placebo-controlled clinical studies were also conducted to measure soothing, protection, wrinkle depth, brightness and skin spot intensity. Both extracts demonstrated marked inhibitory effects on processes linked to skin aging, including the increased expression of SIRT1 in vitro. Clinical testing established the efficacy of the extracts in a range of the tested applications, relative to placebo. The Fucus vesiculosus extract with high polyphenol content demonstrated additional in vitro antioxidant activity, as well as improved efficacy in skin brightening applications, relative to placebo. The major effects of the Undaria pinnatifida extract aided skin immunity, soothing and protection, while the Fucus vesiculosus extract most significantly affected age spot reduction and increased brightness, soothing and protection.

Highlights

Marine macroalgae contain a variety of polysaccharides for both structural and protective functions.The polysaccharide, “fucoidan”, and the marine polyphenols, “polyphloroglucinols”, are molecules produced by macroalgae in order to protect themselves from high UV conditions, from predation and against attack by marine pathogens
According to the clinical analysis, after 60 days of use, 50% of the volunteers showed an improvement in skin brightness, 65% showed a reduction in skin spot appearance and 45% showed an improvement in the appearance of wrinkles
Whilst we demonstrated that Sirtuin 1 (SIRT1) protein levels were increased in vitro by both extracts, the gene expression of SIRT1 was not assessed in the reconstructed epidermis analysis described in this paper

Summary

Introduction

Marine macroalgae contain a variety of polysaccharides for both structural and protective functions. The polysaccharide, “fucoidan”, and the marine polyphenols, “polyphloroglucinols”, are molecules produced by macroalgae in order to protect themselves from high UV conditions, from predation and against attack by marine pathogens. Fucoidans are fucose-rich sulfated polysaccharides found only in brown macroalgae (Phaeophyceae) and echinoderms. These polysaccharides differ in their sugar backbone composition, structure and sulfation patterns according to the species of origin and the extraction techniques used. Undaria pinnatifida yields a fucoidan with a high proportion of galactose in the backbone that, in addition to sulfate groups, is extensively acetylated. Fucus vesiculosus yields a fucoidan with a predominance of fucose in the sugar backbone, and little acetylation

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Conclusion