Top weapons in skin aging and actives to target the consequences of skin cell senescence.

Abstract

Skin aging has long been considered a purely cosmetic problem. However, as life expectancy increases, skin aging is taking on a functional dimension that goes beyond cosmetics and appearance. Preventive or therapeutic strategies are needed to target cellular senescence, a key process underlying the alterations in skin function and appearance that occur with aging, as well as to address the age-related skin changes associated with 'dermatoporosis' and chronic skin insufficiency/fragility syndrome. Thus, given the need for effective anti-aging products that improve both the appearance and function of the skin, it is essential to distinguish active ingredients that have been proven to be effective, among the large number of available over-the-counter cosmeceuticals. This brief review focuses on a core group of topical actives, describing their clinical effects on senescence and aging, and their molecular mechanisms of action. These actives include hyaluronic acid, which has hydrating and viscoelastic properties and has been shown to reduce skin atrophy; retinaldehyde, which activates retinoid receptors and increases cutaneous elasticity; vitamins C and E, which provide stable oxidative protection; and niacinamide, which reduces inflammation and mitigates the effects of senescence.