Abstract

A modeling method of long-term time series of waves and winds for evaluation of beach profile change was proposed. Statistical properties of parameters, representing storm waves, were analyzed and theoretical distributions were obtained together with correlations between those parameters. To check the uniformity of waves, meteorological and wave simulations were carried out. Those predictions were compared with the observations at the Naoetsu Port, and found to be well agreed each other. It was concluded that since spatial distribution of waves is uniform along the Joetsu Coast, the statistical variables can be given as input parameters for the concerned area.

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