Tidal Modulation of Incident Wave Heights: Fact or Fiction?

Abstract

Abstract This contribution investigates the hypothesis that incident wave power is modulated by the tide. Eulerian measurements of wave height recorded by three wave buoys in intermediate water depths (8–45 m relative to the lowest astronomical tide), over a 7-year period were analysed in a search for evidence of this semidiurnal variability in incident wave heights. The study site (Perranporth, U.K.) was a highly macrotidal environment with a maximum spring tidal range of approximately 7.5 m. Autospectra of wave height time series displayed a significant peak at semidiurnal frequencies that was coherently coupled to the tidal displacement. At this site maximum wave power was seen to occur on the rising tide, on average 1 hour 6 minutes before high water. The observed semidiurnal variability in wave height increases in magnitude toward the shoreline. This contribution presents field evidence for tidal modulation of incident wave power by the tide and suggests a possible explanation for the observations in...