Abstract
A computer model named “WAVE” has been developed to simulate the development of coastal environments affected by wave-induced erosion, transport, and deposition. The model simulates wave refraction, wavecurrent interaction, wave set-up, wind, oscillatory wave motion, longshore currents, rip currents, and nearshore sediment transport. Combining these processes into a unified model provides a process-response model that is dynamic in that the effects of wave energy on an evolving coastline are simulated through time. A series of equations based upon the principles of fluid dynamics as applied to coastal hydraulics, are used to calculate nearshore currents within a grid network representing a coastal area. The equations assume that mass and momentum are conserved as waves shoal towards shore, and are solved by integrating over the total water depth, and time-averaging over a single wave period. A finite-difference scheme provides solutions for the wave equations at each node in the grid. Once nearshore currents are calculated, sediment transport is initiated using empirical relationships that are effective in predicting raes of littoral transport.
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