Three Colors of the Nail: The Aesthetics of Manicure in Late Imperial and Soviet Russia

Abstract

Examining manicure practices, the article looks at the emergence in the early twentieth century of a cosmetic culture, unconnected with the concept of the natural. Where nails are concerned, natural beauty meant choosing tinting and polishing materials that accentuated the nails’ pink hue and shine. Later, nail varnish was created in order more effectively to serve the same purpose: its ability to make nails shiny was particularly valued. Meanwhile, stage make-up for hands involved painting nails red, which could look “natural” considering the lighting and distance between the stage and the audience.In the early twentieth century, members of the bohemian arts scene took this practice outside the theater, turning it into an important element in decadent aesthetics. With the appearance of nail varnish, red became a popular color choice for manicure. This signaled a departure from nature not only in tone, but also in chemical composition: thus, red nails came to be seen as a sign of modernity and scientific progress. The author also looks at the emergence of nail whitening with its connotations of cleanliness as a consequence of the popularization of ideas on hygiene.