Abstract

In 1867, controversy erupted when Jean-Anne-Henri Depaul, a Paris accoucheur, tested Justus von Liebig's new "food for infants" on four newborns, all of whom died within days. This paper examines the origins of Liebig's food, the debates in the French Academy of Medicine after Depaul's experiment, and how the events were discussed in the medical and popular presses. I argue that the controversy was shaped by a number of interconnected concerns, including the product's impracticality, disagreements within the field of chemistry, the riskiness of Depaul's experimentation, Liebig's problematic celebrity, the potential hubris of trying to emulate a natural product, and national tensions between France and Germany. Infant feeding was an emotionally charged and highly politicized site where multiple interests, anxieties, and ways of knowing collided. Although commercial infant foods, many of which made reference to Liebig in their advertising, would ultimately find popularity in the last decades of the nineteenth century, close attention to the first years of Liebig's product demonstrates that its credibility as a "scientific" mode of infant feeding was far from assured. Rather, Liebig's milk illustrates the early challenges of constructing and enforcing knowledge and trust at the intersection between food, science, and infant life, in both professional and popular arenas.

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