“They Love the Culture, but Not the People”: A Content Analysis of Cultural Appropriation Claims Against Fashion Designers and Brands From 2013 to 2020

Abstract

The purpose of this study was to explore claims of cultural appropriation against fashion designers and brands (FD&B), determine cultural sources of inspiration in design, and critique how structures of appropriation preserve institutions that harm historically marginalized communities. A latent content analysis approach was utilized to focus on the underlying meanings of cultural appropriation that discuss fashion design, brands, and cultural appropriation. Cultural appropriation was fashioned in media coverage through three theme categories: a)the white narrative, b) the capitalist motive, and c) negligence in the research process. Analysis showed that media claims extend beyond the traditional definition of cultural appropriation, the apparel design process has connections to cultural misappropriation, and positionality plays a role in the apparel design process. Future areas of research are suggested concerning cultural appropriation research, the apparel design process, and apparel design education.&nbsp