Abstract

Hair fibres possess an inherently porous structure, which is affected by physical and chemical agents from the environment, as well as those from cosmetic treatments. The present work aims to investigate the potential of a calorimetric method for evaluating the changes of hair porosity, in terms of pore size and size distribution. The temperature of the phase transition from solid to liquid is known to be depressed if the liquid is confined within a pore. This shift in temperature can be measured by a calorimetric method like differential scanning calorimetry, DSC. This method is termed thermoporometry and it is the tool used for investigating hair porosity in this work. Virgin and bleached hair fibres are measured by DSC and, by using the equations developed for water behaviour confined in pores of a solid, the size and size distribution of the hair pores are evaluated, and the influence of the cosmetic treatment on the pores is discussed. Thermoporometry measurements of hair produced results in good agreement with those obtained by other methods for measuring hair porosity. The analysis of the data suggests that the fibre pores are mostly of a radius of 4 nm, and that the bleaching process increases the total volume of pores through the addition of smaller pores. A prolonged bleaching process appears to reduce the amount of fine pores produced by the first short process, resulting in fewer, but larger, cavities, most likely through a process of pore-merging.

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