Abstract

Despite the importance of effective observational analysis in coaching the technical aspects of climbing performance, limited research informs this aspect of climbing coach education. Thus, the purpose of the present research was to explore the feasibility and the utility of a novel methodology, combining eye tracking technology and cued retrospective think-aloud (RTA), to capture the cognitive–perceptual mechanisms that underpin the visual search behaviors of climbing coaches. An analysis of gaze data revealed that expert climbing coaches demonstrate fewer fixations of greater duration and fixate on distinctly different areas of the visual display than their novice counterparts. Cued RTA further demonstrated differences in the cognitive–perceptual mechanisms underpinning these visual search strategies, with expert coaches being more cognizant of their visual search strategy. To expand, the gaze behavior of expert climbing coaches was underpinned by hierarchical and complex knowledge structures relating to the principles of climbing movement. This enabled the expert coaches to actively focus on the most relevant aspects of a climber’s performance for analysis. The findings demonstrate the utility of combining eye tracking and cued RTA interviewing as a new, efficient methodology of capturing the cognitive–perceptual processes of climbing coaches to inform coaching education/strategies.

Highlights

  • Climbing’s acceptance as an Olympic event in Tokyo 2020 is recognition of the sports’ increasing popularity and professionalization (Bautev and Robinson, 2019)

  • The retrospective think-aloud (RTA) analysis revealed that the experts were more cognizant of their visual search strategy, detailing how their visual gaze behavior is guided by a systematic hierarchical process underpinned by complex knowledge structures relating to the principles of climbing movement

  • The present results demonstrate the utility of combining eye tracking technology and cued RTA as a methodology for capturing the cognitive–perceptual processes of climbing coaches

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Summary

Introduction

Climbing’s acceptance as an Olympic event in Tokyo 2020 is recognition of the sports’ increasing popularity and professionalization (Bautev and Robinson, 2019). Too will the need for effective coaching, requiring coach educators to consider how coaching expertise is developed (Sport England, 2018). Climbing coaches employ a range of complex and inter-related strategies to facilitate physical, technical, mental, and tactical improvements (Currell and Jeukendrup, 2008). To date, climbing research has predominantly focused on the physiological and the psychological aspects of performance, somewhat neglecting the importance of the technical components of climbing (Taylor et al, 2020). The process by which climbing coaches facilitate technical improvements in their athletes is wholly under-researched.

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