The Use of Silicones as Extractants of Biologically Active Substances from Vegetable Raw Materials

Diana Saribekova,Oleksandra Kunik,Ludmila Saleba,Giuseppe Cavallaro,Ruslana Harhaun

doi:10.3390/app112210625

Diana Saribekova, Oleksandra Kunik + Show 3 more

Open Access

https://doi.org/10.3390/app112210625

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Abstract

Based on theoretical studies, the authors of this paper propose the use of cosmetic organosilicon polymers (commonly called silicones) for the extraction of a complex of biologically active substances contained in vegetable raw materials. It is important to note that the biological molecules do not interact with the organosilicones and, therefore, their properties are not altered after the extraction. In this work, we investigate the efficiency of several polyorganosiloxanes as extractants of vegetable raw materials (Calendula Officialis L. and Artemisia Absinthium L.) useful for the preparation of cosmetic emulsions. Specifically, the extraction studies were conducted by using polyorganosiloxanes with a single component (polydimethylsiloxane Silicone Oil 350 cSt, cyclopentasiloxane BRB CM 50, and phenyltrimethicone BRB PTM 20) as well as a mixture (PEG-12 polydimethylsiloxane BRB 526, a solution of dimethiconol in cyclopentasiloxane BRB 1834, and amodimethicone BRB 1288). Compared to water and ethyl alcohol, polyorganosiloxanes are more effective in the extraction of the biologically active substances that are contained in the raw plants. Interestingly, the combination of different polyorganosiloxanes improved the extraction efficiency. The attained knowledge can be helpful in the development of a novel protocol for the formulation of emulsions appealing for cosmetic applications.

Highlights

Vegetable raw materials have been largely employed in cosmetics due to the presence of a broad range of biologically active substances with different functionalities
We investigated the efficiency of several polyorganosiloxanes as extractants of biologically active substances contained in vegetable raw materials (Calendula Officialis L. and Artemisia Absinthium L.)
Compared with the traditional extractants, the investigated polyorganosiloxanes can be more efficient in the extraction of biological molecules, as suggested by their physicochemical properties

Summary

Introduction

Vegetable raw materials have been largely employed in cosmetics due to the presence of a broad range of biologically active substances with different functionalities. Numerous studies have been aimed towards the development of cosmetic formulations containing growing amounts of natural molecules [1,2,3]. Active substances from plants belong to different classes of inorganic and organic compounds, which possess a specific activity that influences the catalytic and regulatory functions in the human body [4]. The properties of the biological molecules are affected by both the raw plant and the extraction procedure. It should be evidenced that the functionalities of biological compounds can be controlled by their loading within inorganic nanomaterials [5,6,7]. It is well known that water represents the traditional extractant used within cosmetics

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