Abstract

The use of dye plants is part of the cultural inheritance of Santa Rosa de Lima, Mexico. Numerous dye plants are present in the region, but women mainly use indigo and cochineal to dye wool for making traditional clothing. A comparative study was conducted to identify changes in the use of natural dyes between 1995 and 2017. A bibliographic review identified 29 potential dye species in the region. A catalog of 149 samples of dyed wool was created using these species and was presented to 11 local women to evaluate their willingness to use different natural dyes. Despite the existence of various dye species in the region, the women preferred indigo and cochineal because these dyes form part of their cultural identity. The women were aware of only five regional dye species, dodder, dahlia, Mexican marigold, sunflower, and bush sunflower, which are used to create yellow, orange, and green colors. The collection of wild dye plants has decreased over time, and these plants have been increasingly substituted by Mexican marigold. However, the women showed interest in using nine of the 29 species in the catalog and in selling handmade textiles, even though this artisanal activity has not been developed up to the present date.

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