Abstract
WAVEWATCH-III is a third generation spectral wave model, developed originally for deep water in Ocean Modeling Branch of NOAA. By adding nearshore processes and removing some restriction from its code, the model can be applied to a full range of water depths from offshore to coastal regions. Depth induced wave breaking, surf zone energy dissipation and Triad wave-wave interactions are the important physical processes considered in shallow waters. The restrictions on time steps and minimum water depth in the original code have been relaxed to make the model applicable to coastal areas with high spatial resolution. The simulation results of the modified model have been compared with another third generation and widely tested spectral model, SWAN, in addition to some laboratory and field data.
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