The temporal and spatial variations in the Pacific wind and wave fields for the period 2002–2011

Abstract

The temporal and spatial variations in the wind and wave fields in the Pacific Ocean between 2002 and 2011 are analyzed using a third-generation wave model (WAVEWATCH III). The model performance for a significant wave height is validated using in situ buoy data. The results show that the wave model effectively hindcasts the significant wave height in the Pacific Ocean, but the errors are relatively large in the mid- and low-latitude regions. The spatial distributions and temporal variations in a wind speed and the significant wave height in the Pacific Ocean are then considered after dividing the Pacific Ocean into five regions, which show meridional differences and seasonal cycles. Regional mean values are used to give yearly average time series for each separate zone. The high latitude region in the Southern Hemisphere had a stronger significant wave height trend in the model results than regions at other latitudes. The sources and sinks of wave energy are then investigated. Their regional mean values are used to quantify variations in surface waves. Finally, the spectral analyses of the daily mean wind speeds and the significant wave heights are obtained. The significant wave height and the wind speed spectra are found to be connected in some ways but also show certain differences.