The Suitability of Lipases for the Synthesis of Bioactive Compounds with Cosmeceutical Applications

Abstract

: Cosmeceuticals are cosmetic products containing biologically active ingredients with attractive properties (e.g. anti-oxidant, anti-inflammatory, anti-aging, photoprotective activity, etc.). The aim of these compounds is to offer pharmaceutically therapeutic benefits. The active ingredients can be extracted and purified from natural sources, including plants and animals, or be obtained by biotechnological methodologies (e.g. fermentation, enzymatic synthesis, etc.). Recent years have been increased interest in the design and development of bioactive compounds with cosmeceutical applications and low toxicity. The enzymatic synthesis of bioactive esters, based on esterification or transesterification, has attracted much interest because of the interesting properties of the resulting products and because, by replacing traditional chemical catalysts, this approach leads towards the development of more sustainable processes that follow the principles of Green Chemistry. This review gives an overview of the excellent suitability of lipases as biocatalysts for producing bioactive compounds with attractive properties for the cosmetics industry.