The state, fashion companies, and International Non-Governmental Organization (INGO) relations: Encountering the problem of hazardous waste

Abstract

This research aims to expose the relationship between the state, fashion companies, and international non-governmental organization (INGO) in dealing with hazardous waste problem. To achieve this objective, this research exemplifies Greenpeace as leading INGO, and its relationships with Chinese government, fashion companies/brands, and global community in encountering the problem of hazardous waste polluting water environment in China, caused by massive textile industrial activities. The results expose that to deal with the problem, Chinese government has not performed enough to solve hazardous waste problem, hampered by its goal prioritizing economic development rather than water-environmental security. Meanwhile, as INGO, Greenpeace has instigated Detox campaign on fashion in 2011 as its strategy to change Chinese government, fashion companies, and global community perceptions, policies, and behaviours to be the proponent of hazardous waste reduction and elimination. In the process of implementing these strategies, Greenpeace found major obstacle to do so toward Chinese government due to its authoritarian nature of political system. Despite such impediment, it continues its advocacy upon the problem by shifting its focus to press and influence fashion companies and global community for hazardous waste reduction and elimination in China. Responding to such Greenpeace campaign, many fashion companies/brands and global community greatly welcome, participate, and take action to achieve the goals set in the campaign. Their positive response has direct impacts to drive change upon corporate policies and behaviour of textile suppliers in China in order to consecutively use and dispose more environmentally friendly materials and waste. It is expected that the continuation of fashion companies and global community’s positive response will improve water condition in China.