The standardization-localization dilemma of brand communications for luxury fashion retailers' internationalization into China

Abstract

This paper considers the standardization–localization debate within the context of foreign luxury fashion retailers' internationalization into the emerging Chinese marketplace. Luxury retailers must balance a global–local dilemma, given the challenging trading conditions of a complex marketplace with low brand awareness and loyalty, alongside the need to maintain exclusivity and standardization of brand image across all markets. Qualitative data from 22 luxury fashion retailers currently active in the Chinese market provide rich insights that reveal the decision-making process for marketing strategies that support entry into China. Foreign luxury retailers balance the ‘global–local dilemma’ in China firstly by locating operational management control within the strategic hub of Hong Kong, and secondly by implementing far more adaptive and enterprising marketing communications than seen in other mature markets. At the same time, foreign luxury retailers retain tight strategic control of key branding dimensions at head offices in their home markets, as part of a successful long-term luxury brand management strategy. As Chinese luxury consumers increasingly feel part of a global elite, over-localization may cause confusion over brand identity and country of origin (COO). The insights may be strategically useful for luxury retailers entering or expanding in China and also provide indications of future trends of luxury retailing in China and other emerging markets.