Abstract
PurposeThe primary aim of this study is to determine the principal somatic and motor determinants for elite climbers.MethodsTwenty climbers were examined [age: 28.5±6.1 years].The runners were divided into two groups based on their climbing level, according to the International Rock Climbing Research Association (IRCRA). Elite climbers represented a 8b-8c Rotpunkt (RP) climbing level (n = 6), and advanced climbers represented an 7c+-8a RP level (n = 14). The following measurements were assessed: height, weight, lean body mass, upper limb length, arm span, and forearm, arm, thigh and calf circumference. The BMI, Rohrer ratio, and Ape Index were also measured. The following motor tests were assessed: a specific test for finger strength, an arm strength test, and a test of muscle endurance (hanging from 2.5 and 4 cm ledges). In addition, pull ups were used to measure muscle resistance to fatigue.ResultsElite climbers recorded significantly higher values for finger strength than advanced climbers (129.08 vs. 111.54 kg; t(18) = 2.35, p = 0.03) and arm endurance (33.17 vs. 25.75 pull ups; t(18) = 2.54, p = 0.02). In addition, the calf circumference was significantly lower in elite climbers than that in advanced climbers (34.75 vs. 36.93 cm; t(18) = 3.50, p = 0.003).ConclusionThe results suggest that elite climbers have greater finger strength and arm endurance than advanced climbers.
Highlights
Sports disciplines are typically classified based on the type of motor activity involved, including endurance, forceful-high speed and mixed disciplines, in which the activity is categorized as either forceful-endurance or high speed-endurance.Sport climbing is considered a forceful-endurance discipline in which the main resistance force is the body weight
The calf circumference was significantly lower in elite climbers than that in advanced climbers (34.75 vs. 36.93 cm; t(18) = 3.50, p = 0.003)
The results suggest that elite climbers have greater finger strength and arm endurance than advanced climbers
Summary
Sports disciplines are typically classified based on the type of motor activity involved, including endurance (long-term activities), forceful-high speed (activities with high intensity and short duration) and mixed disciplines, in which the activity is categorized as either forceful-endurance or high speed-endurance.Sport climbing is considered a forceful-endurance discipline in which the main resistance force is the body weight. Watts et al [4] observed that elite climbers were characterized by a lower weight and a lower fat composition than non-climbing individuals. Comparisons between elite climbers and nonclimbers or recreational climbers only enable us to identify the essential determinants of sports results. To gain a greater understanding of this question, it is necessary to compare the physique of professional performers to that of advanced climbers and calculate the linear correlation coefficients between rock climbing levels and somatic features. In a study performed by Espana-Romero et al [6], no essential differences in physique were observed between elite (8b on-sight) and expert (8a on-sight) climbers. The presented study results demonstrate that elite climbers are characterized by a specific physique, there is no difference between these elite climbers and climbers representing the 8a on-sight level
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