The rise of the cosmetic industry in ancient China: Insights from a 2700‐year‐old face cream

Abstract

Cosmetics have a long history in China, but their origins remain unclear. Cosmetic industry potentially originated in the Spring and Autumn Period (770–476 bce), but little is known about the early manufacture and use of cosmetics. The Liujiawa site, located on the southern edge of the Loess Plateau in northern China, was the late capital of the ancient Rui state in the early to mid‐Spring and Autumn Period. During the excavation, a sealed small and exquisite container with suspected cosmetic use was unearthed from tomb M49 belonging to a male associated with the aristocratic class. We report in this paper the multidisciplinary application of ATR‐FTIR, XRD, SEM, stable isotope analysis, GC‐MS and GC‐C‐IRMS analysis of the residue inside the container, demonstrating that the residue, which was made of ruminant adipose fat mixed with monohydrocalcite from cave moonmilk, was likely used as cosmetic face cream by the nobleman of the Rui state. This study provides an early example of cosmetic production in China, and, together with the prevalence of similar cosmetic containers during this period, it suggests the rise of an incipient cosmetics industry. Furthermore, the exploitation of moonmilk, a special stalactite in some limestone caves, reflects the link between early Taoist School and cosmetic production encouraged by the aristocratic class.