Abstract

This qualitative research aims to study the evaluation, wisdom, and identity of indigo-dyed fabric in Northeastern (Isan) Thailand. The cultural inheritance concept, the beliefs associated with textile wisdom concept, the wisdom concept, the cultural diffusion theory, the evolution theory, the structural functionalism theory, and the identity theory were used as theoretical frameworks. Data were collected from documents and fieldwork using research instruments including surveys, and interviews. Descriptive analysis was used to analyse and present this data. The study revealed the extensive history of Isan indigo-dyed fabric, tracing its evolution from 1897 to 2022, which can be divided into four distinct periods: 1) Emergence of evidence in Isan (1897–1941); 2) Decline (1942–1969); 3) Revival (1970–2016); and 4) Transition into the creative economy (2017–2022). Wisdom surrounding indigo-dyed fabric was explored across four dimensions: 1) Production process, 2) Functions, 3) Patterns, and 4) Beliefs. The identity of Isan indigo-dyed fabric was classified into three main categories: 1) Individual identity, encompassing the production process and beliefs; 2) Collective identity, which includes colours, patterns, and usages or functions; and 3) Sociocultural identity, embodied by the discourse “World of Indigo” shaped by societal and cultural acceptance. These findings underscored the pivotal role of social changes in facilitating the inheritance and preservation of wisdom. Therefore, transforming indigo-dyed fabric into a product of economic significance with widespread acceptance, ultimately solidifying its status as a cultural heritage.

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