The relationship between the chemical components and skin-related enzyme inhibition, antioxidant activities and toxicity profile of Helichrysum armenium subsp. armenium

Abstract

The aerial parts of Helichrysum armenium subsp. armenium were subjected to methanol, ethyl acetate and n-hexane extraction. The extracts were evaluated for their in vitro enzyme inhibitory activity [lipoxygenase (LOX), tyrosinase and elastase], antioxidant activity and toxicity (on fibroblast cells). All the extracts displayed a weak effect on LOX and elastase. The ethyl acetate extract showed the highest inhibition on tyrosinase enzyme with IC50 = 460 µg/mL, while kojic acid had IC50 = 30 µg/mL. The methanol and ethyl acetate extracts compared to the n-hexane extract exhibited stronger DPPH• and ABTS•+ scavenging activity, as well as iron(II)-chelating potential, and were shown to have rich phenolic and flavonoid contents. The methanol extract was toxic to healthy fibroblast cells at a higher concentration with IC50 > 500 µg/mL compared to the other extracts. Phytochemical analysis of the extracts was made quantitatively by LC–MS/MS. The major components identified in the methanol and the ethyl acetate extracts were astragalin, quinic acid, apigenin-7-glycoside, isoquercitrin, chlorogenic acid, naringenin, apigenin and luteolin-7-glucoside. The compounds detected in the n-hexane extract were much fewer. Based on these findings, H. armenium subsp. armenium can be considered to be a natural raw material with the potential to be used in the cosmetic industry.