THE RELATIONSHIP BETWEEN MUSCULAR STRENGTH AND ENDURANCE AND ROCK CLIMBING PERFORMANCE

Abstract

745 The purpose of conducting this investigation was to determine whether strength or muscular endurance is more important in determining rock climbing performance. Six subjects (males n = 4) that self-reported their highest on-sight ability from 5.7 to 5.13a served as subjects. All subjects first underwent a screening climb (5.6) to ensure that all had a minimal level of ability. Following successful completion of the screening climb, subjects underwent a test climb on an artificial climbing wall to assess climbing performance. The route was 11 m in distance and became progressively harder from beginning to end. The total distance that the subjects climbed was utilized as the climbing performance measure. After a rest period, or on an alternate day, isokinetic leg and shoulder extension strength was assessed at 60°/sec. Grip strength and pincer strength were determined following the isokinetic strength tests. Muscular endurance was measured by a bent arm hang to fatigue and time to fatigue at 50% of maximal grip strength. For data analysis all strength measures were made relevant to body weight. The data was analyzed for significant relationships using Pearson's r. An alpha level of 0.1 was utilized because of the small sample size. Statistical analysis indicated hang time (r = .85) and grip strength (r = .78) were significantly related to climbing performance. All other variables did not significantly relate to climbing performance. These findings suggest that distal limb strength and endurance in the muscle groups proximal to the torso best explain the variability in climbing performance. We conclude that climbers should train for strength distally and endurance proximally in the limbs to optimize climb performance.