The POSEIDON Nearshore Wave Model and its Application to the Prediction of the Wave Conditions in the Nearshore/Coastal Region of the Greek Seas

Abstract

In the present work, the Poseidon Nearshore Wave Model (PNWM) developed in the framework of the POSEIDON project 1 , and its application to the prediction of the wave conditions in nearshore/coastal regions of Greek seas is presented. The PNWM is based on a one-way energy coupling between a third-generation, phase-averaged, nearshore wave model and a local phase-resolving model, nested in the first model. The local wave model is supported by the consistent coupled-mode theory, based on an enhanced local-mode representation of the wave velocity field, which except for the propagating and the evanescent modes includes an additional mode, permitting the exact satisfaction of the sloping-bottom boundary condition, even in areas with locally steep bottom slope and large curvature. Thus, three-dimensional diffraction effects are fully treated in the local nested area. Numerical results are presented demonstrating the application of the PNWM to nearshore and coastal sites of the Greek seas.