THE POETICS OF CONCEALMENT: AL-NABULUSI’S ENCOUNTER WITH THE DOME OF THE ROCK

Abstract

On Monday morning, March 27, 1690, celebrated Damascene scholar Abd al-Ghani al-Nabulusi (1641 1731) set out with a group of friends and followers to travel from Damascus to Jerusalem1?a leisurely journey to House of Holiness (Bayt al-Maqdis), tracing a trail marked by saints' tombs, Sufi contacts, and spring-enlivened landscapes. In a dream that preceded journey, al-Nabulusi had seen himself riding a beautiful Arabian horse, with his feet resting on palms of two vigorous and beautifully dressed young men. Four days later, as convoy took off, two young Sufis walked undistractedly in front of al Nabulusi, the walking of angels.2 They accompanied convoy all way to Jerusalem and back. Fol lowing morning prayer, journey began with a visit to prophet Yahya's shrine in Umayyad Great Mosque (fig. 1). After sixteen days of eventful and joyful travel Jerusalem loomed on horizon. A sense of excitement besieged group, and a shiver of passion ran through their souls: they had reached their destination and were in proximity of sacred. Before entering city, however, they pro ceeded to Jarrahiyya School to visit tomb of Shaykh Husam al-Din al-Jarrahi (d. 1201).3 Waiting to receive visitors was an assembly of spiritual leaders and dignitaries together with a crowd carrying flags and reciting prayers and religious invocations.4 The Sufis of Adhamiyya zdwiya soon joined in recep tion, and all proceeded to al-Amud Gate (also known as Damascus Gate) (fig. 2). The visit seemed to have excited city. As al-Nabulusi entered, descended to market place, and walked along narrow streets of Jerusa lem, he was moved by beauty and blessedness of city. His memoirs reveal a sense of awe mixed with delight and elation. Along with marching crowd and chanting band, visitors made their way to Noble Sanctuary (al-Haram al-Sharif), their ultimate target. They entered Haram from Cotton Mer chants' Gate (Bab al-Qattanin) (fig. 3). The moment of entering was memorable, as it coincided with recitation of a poetic line celebrating Prophet's night journey from Mecca to Jerusalem: