The Physical Properties of Woven Fabrics for Emotional Garment According to the Weaving Loom Characteristics

Abstract

Many efforts for making good quality fabrics for emotional garment have been performed by SME weavers and finishers. And weaving machinery companies are researching about loom mechanism applied by low warp and filling tensions and loom mechanism for good quality fabrics. The fabric defects complained by garment manufacturers are stop marks, streaky phenomena on the warp direction, thickness variation and color differences between edges on the right and left sides of the fabrics, which are partly due to the tension variation of warp and filling directions. Therefore, many researches(Basu, 1987; Islam & Bandara, 1996, 1999) related to the fabric defects and weaving loom mechanism were carried out and many patents related to the loom were presented by loom makers. Many researches related to the warp and filling tensions during weaving were performed with relation to the fabric defects. Fabric physical property is largely affected by various factors such as constituent yarn physical property and fabric structural parameters. But, the fabric physical property for emotional garment is also affected by weaving loom characteristics. Among weaving loom characteristics, warp and weft yarn tensions during weaving are the most important parameters which affects fabric physical properties and quality. And warp and weft yarn tensions are different according to loom characteristics i.e. according to air-jet, rapier and projectile. Even though same rapier loom, these tensions are slightly different according to the mechanism of rapier loom. Many researches(Islam & Bandara, 1996, 1999) related to the warp and weft yarn tensions during weaving were carried out with relation to the stop marks and other fabric quality. On the other hand, air-jet insertion in air-jet loom and its mechanical mechanism were also performed with variation of the air flow and weft yarn tension.(Natarajan et al, 1993; Adanur & Mohamed, 1988, 1991, 1992)