Abstract

This paper explores the different channels of transfer of luxury commodities (rugs, silk fabrics) from Persia and the Ottoman Empire to the three principalities of Moldavia, Wallachia and Transylvania, located at the north-western fringes of the Transottomanica. In the introductory section, it examines the function of the luxury products and their integration into the representational culture of the fifteenth century at the Hungarian royal court, in the Transylvanian cities, as well as in the two Danubian Principalities. The successive integration of Transylvania, Moldavia and Wallachia into the Ottoman sphere of power led to different forms of acceptance and transformation of the imported objects. Although there are parallels between the three principalities with regard to the bestowal of the honorary garments during the investiture rituals by the sultan and his officials, there are differences with regard to the further destiny of these valuable garments. While in Transylvania these were often treasured or reworked into representative costumes given their high material value, in Moldavia and in Wallachia a considerable number of kaftans were transferred into the sacral realm. Hereby older traditions were adapted to the new circumstances. The rulers of the two Danubian Principalities now acted as donors alongside high dignitaries within the framework of supra-regional networks. In addition to their native territories, their activities encompassed the major Orthodox sanctuaries in Greece and the Holy Land. Furthermore, the Danubian Principalities were an important hub for transfers to the Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth and the Tsardom of Russia.

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