Abstract
This article presents new tendencies in modern haute cuisine — understood as an aesthetic experience — which reinvent the ways of savouring and sharing food. We shall analyse the process of the artification of cooking, linked to a peculiar aestheticization of the very act of eating. We shall see how modern haute cuisine multiplies experiments which intend to provoke gustative and collective experiences in unusual places – creating new spacetimes, new gastronomic imaginaries and also offering modern guests other ways of eating. Through the study of the scenography of three Spanish restaurants, we shall highlight the emergence of brand-new relationships between guests and cooks, that reveal the chefs’ desire to break from their regular daily practice, and view the experience of tasting as a spectacular, collective and ritualized togetherness.
Highlights
Este artículo presenta nuevas tendencias de la alta gastronomía actual —entendida como experiencia estética— que reinventa los modos de degustar y de compartir la comida
We shall analyse the process of the culinary arts of cooking, linked to a peculiar aestheticization of the very act of eating
Through the study of the scenography of three Spanish restaurants, we shall highlight the emergence of brand-new relationships between guests and cooks, that reveal the chefs’ desire to break from their regular daily practice, and view the experience of tasting as a spectacular, collective and ritualized togetherness
Summary
Este artículo presenta nuevas tendencias de la alta gastronomía actual —entendida como experiencia estética— que reinventa los modos de degustar y de compartir la comida. Se analizará el proceso de artificación de la cocina que se conjuga con una peculiar estetización del acto mismo de comer. Veremos cómo la alta gastronomía actual multiplica los experimentos que tratan de provocar experiencias gustativas y colectivas en espacios inusuales, abriendo a la vez nuevos espacios-tiempos, nuevos imaginarios gastronómicos y proponiendo otras maneras de comer al huésped contemporáneo. A partir del estudio de la escenografía de tres restaurantes españoles, Dos Palillos, Dstage y La Cabra, notaremos la emergencia de intercambios renovados entre huéspedes y cocineros, y así pues una voluntad por parte de los chefs de romper con las prácticas corrientes para abordar la experiencia de la degustación como un “estar juntos” espectacular, colectivo, y ritual
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