The New Challenge of the European Leather Supply Chain in the Current Geopolitical Environment

Abstract

Every year around the world, tanneries valorize and ennoble about 8 million tons of raw hides and skins, a waste material from the agri-food supply chain that would otherwise be destined for disposal in landfills or incineration, resulting in the release of about 5 million tons of greenhouse gases. On the other hand, leather, an extraordinary example of valorization and conversion of a putrescible and polluting material, has a much longer use life than its substitutes and a far more favorable degradative fate for the environment. The war in Ukraine and the consequent repercussions on the international market are likely to further exacerbate the historic need for raw materials (crude and semi-finished) of the European and, in particular, of the Italian tanning industry; and tanneries in non-European (Asian and South American) countries, given the greater availability of raw hides and skins, could take advantage of this to reduce the competitiveness of EU tannery in the markets. So worrisome is the situation that one of the world's most important associations of tanning industrialists, the National Union of the Tanning Industry (UNIC-Unione Nazionale Industria Conciaria), in agreement with the European Confederation of Tanners (COTANCE), has planned, in the first months of the year 2022, to request the European Commission to limit the export of European raw/semi-processed hides and skins outside the EU borders. In such a disturbing scenario, there is a clear need to adopt countermeasures projected over the medium and long term and adequate investments, for the ever-increasing implementation of the principles of circular economy and technological innovation in order to improve the environmental, but also economic, sustainability of the leather industry.