The Macanese Chá Gordo: Historical analysis of narratives about its origin

Abstract

There are many similarities between the Macanese Chá Gordo and European and Oriental banquets. European banquets that many associate with the ancient Greeks and Romans, Italian antipasto whose origin is attributed to Marco Polo who brought it from China, Portuguese acepipes linked to the Arabic Az-zibib and the Chinese Yam chá are according to some, are the basis for the designation Chá Gordo and the dishes that make up this special meal in Macanese cuisine. The eating habits and customs of the Japanese Christians who sought safe haven in Macau in the aftermath of Shogun Tokugawa’s expulsion Edit of 1614 greatly influenced the Macanese cuisine. The more recent reflections associate Chá Gordo which is served in the afternoon, with the traditional English High Tea. The variety of dishes of the Chá Gordo is given as the reason why it was developed in the nineteenth and twentieth century in the homes of affluent Macanese families. Most if not all of these narratives are speculative, probably based on oral tradition. In this paper we will explore a different line of thought taking account of historical facts from maritime history characterized by tragedy, resilience and religious devotion that over time became features of Macanese identity and the basis of the origin and custom of the Macanese Chá Gordo. Keywords: Chá Gordo; Macanese; Japanese food and eating habits; Macanese gastronomy; Identity