The Ittar Industry of Kannauj: A Saga of Commodification of Olfactory Aesthetics

Abstract

Kannauj is an historic city in northern India, which is known since antiquity for producing high quality natural ittar (natural perfume). This study explores the notion that perfume is a product of science and standardised production and marketing practices, whereas ittar is a natural product derived from traditional knowledge and craft production processes passed on through generations. The study highlights the ‘deg-bhapka’ technique of ittar production, explores the lifeworlds of the artisans, their perception of the art, discusses the main ittar varieties, and explores the role of social and cultural capital in preserving the legacy over generations. Semi-structured, open-ended interviews were used for data collection. Finally, the study examines the contemporary challenges and bottlenecks in this heritage industry and the incongruency of the art of ittar-making to the nuances of the capitalist economy. The possibilities for evolving and marketing ittar as a ‘green’, ‘organic’ and ‘indigenous’ product of traditional art and contemporary aesthetic standards are explored.