Abstract
The problems facing the modern dyehouse due to the presence of impurities on cotton fibres from a variety of sources are discussed. A list of impurities normally assignable to natural cotton is included to emphasise the complexity of the chemistry influencing the pretreatment stage. The importance of effective systems management during pretreatment is highlighted. A laboratory study has been undertaken to investigate the action of three different types of needle oil on reactive dye yield when dyeing cotton. Oleophilic dyes increased in dye yield when the oil was not adequately removed in preparation, as expected. This investigation explains some of the less common but previously puzzling occurrences of dye‐resist effects, demonstrating that this may be associated in some way with knitting oils.
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