THE INFLUENCE OF RIGIDNESS AND CONSTANCY ON THE ASSESSMENT OF WEAR RESISTANCE OF TEXTILE MATERIALS

Abstract

The article examines the indicators of stiffness and immutability of cotonine-containing and mixed tissues of different fibrous composition. Their influence on hygienic properties of sewing clothes is analyzed. Fabrics for summer clothes should be stiff enough, as this affects the underwear space. At the same time, the presence of lignin in the bast fibers gives the cotton-containing fabrics increased rigidity, which negatively affects the draping of the fabrics and the sewing of products in silhouette. Stiffness, relief and heterogeneity of flax fiber gives mixed cotton-containing fabrics the optimal structure for the manufacture of clothing in the summer range. The permanence of the fabric affects the quality of the product, its service life and consumption costs. Among the important factors that affect the rate of indelibility of the fabric is the composition of raw materials and the type of finish. To increase the coefficient of immutability, fabrics with a content of more than 50% of cellulose fibers must be subjected to final finishing by mechanical or chemical means (low-folding or low-setting treatment). It is the rigidity of the material that affects its ability to resist bending. It is established that with increasing content in the composition of cotonine-containing fabrics of polyester and cotton fibers, the conditional stiffness decreases. It is proved that the stiffness of textile materials is influenced by their fibrous composition, structure, properties of fibers and threads, as well as the structure and processing of the material itself. The ability of a textile material to restore its original appearance depends on the elastic properties and elastic deformations with a rapid period of relaxation. Elongation at the time of breaking linen and hemp yarn does not exceed 3%, cotton – 6%. The share of elastic deformation in the total elongation of the fibers is insignificant. Therefore, products made of natural cellulose fabrics are not resistant to wrinkling. The addition of polyester fibers increases the elasticity of tissues and immutability. The reasons for the increase in the coefficient of immutability are: fabric shrinkage after the first cycles of washing, accompanied by an increase in the linear density of the fabric; reducing the degree of polymerization of cellulose, and, as a consequence, the destruction of cellulose fibers and leaching from the surface of the textile material.