Abstract

The basic intention of the research is to analyse the influence of air-jet and vortex yarn structure on woven fabric functionality. With the research, the air-jet and vortex yarn from the mixture of 65 % PES / 35 % CO fibres and fineness 20 tex were analysed. For comparison, the conventional ring-spun yarn was chosen from the mixture of 65 % PES/35 % CO fibres and fineness 20 tex. The woven fabric in the twill weave T1/3Z was produced from the air-jet, vortex and ring-spun yarn in the weft direction with two different weft densities (20 and 30 yarns per cm). In the first part of the study, the structure, physical and mechanical properties of the air-jet, vortex and ring-spun yarn were analysed, while in the second part of the research, the influence of used yarn in the weft direction on the functionality of woven fabric was studied. The research was focused mainly on physical, mechanical properties as well as permeability properties of woven fabric with air-jet and vortex yarn in the weft direction in comparison with woven fabric with conventional ring-spun yarn in the weft direction, with equal chemical composition and fineness of yarn. The research results was shown which yarn structure in the weft direction of woven fabric (air-jet or vortex) the most closely approximates the characteristics of the ring-spun yarn, which has because of ring-traveller-spindle mechanism ideal and the most even structure, mainly because of the insertion of the true twist.

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