The inescapable haunt(ing): Dressing trans life after death

Abstract

This article traces the material effects of Black trans death on Black trans life, particularly in the dimensions of aesthetics, fashion and beauty. I use a Black trans hauntological approach to analyse recordings of Balls, film and television, and personal anecdotes of Black transness in order to develop a transtemporal mapping between ghosts and their haunted subjects. On the one hand, my research builds upon a growing field of work in Black queer and trans studies that looks at Black trans life and its relationship with the ‘afterlife’. On the other, it critiques the liberal humanism that grounds much of fashion studies, thus foregrounding subjects, methodologies and worlds that are still under-researched within the field. By focusing on the practice of dressing, and specifically on the autonomous garmenting of trans people, I show how the violated and murdered Black trans person’s haunting can be traced materially. At the centrepiece of this article is the interrogation of how contemporary dressing practices of ‘living’ Black trans people invoke and are possessed by the ghosts of anti-trans violence. Found in the reciprocal relationship of invocation and possession is the mutual care transmitted between and through the barriers of Black trans life and death.