Abstract
Abstract : LONG-TERM GOALS. My long term goal is to contribute to our understanding of fluid-sediment interaction in coastal environments. Of particular interest to me are the topographical expressions of nearshore flow characteristics, especially the development of bedforms and beach cusps. I am also interested in understanding the dynamics of coastal aeolian systems. OBJECTIVES. The primary objective of this project is to obtain the requisite hydrodynamic and morphologic measurements to distinguish between a system self-organization or an edge wave origin for beach cusps. The experiment was designed to measure waves and currents in the surf zone immediately adjacent to a gravel beach foreshore, to measure the morphological evolution of that foreshore, and to measure swash and slope characteristics. The resulting data should allow for an unambiguous test of the competing hypotheses.
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