The Feasibility of the ERA5 Forced Numerical Wave Model in Fetch-Limited Basins

Abstract

Numerical wave models are critical in hindcasting reliable long-term time series of significant wave heights, which play a crucial role in coastal and ocean engineering activities. Although wind fields are an important input to numerical wave models, few studies have investigated the feasibility of the widely used ERA5 wind reanalysis dataset in fetch-limited basins. In this work, we investigated the feasibility of the ERA5 forced numerical wave model (SWAN) in fetch-limited basins. ERA5 wind velocities were first compared to ground-based meteorological stations, showing poorer accuracy compared to finer gridded ALADIN wind data. Subsequently, the white-capping coefficient Cds in the Janssen white-capping formulation was calibrated separately using a surrogate model when establishing the ERA5 and ALADIN forced wave models. The calibrated ERA5 forced model showed a similar agreement to wave buoy data as the calibrated ALADIN forced wave model during the calibration period and even superior accuracy in the validation period. Overall, these results show that the wave model calibration procedure mitigates the effect of the poorer accuracy of the ERA5 wind data on the significant wave height results. Nevertheless, both ERA5 and ALADIN forced wave models showed an alarming overprediction for high simulated significant wave heights.