The Ethnologist’s Kitchen: Lewis Henry Morgan and the Aztecs

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In 1876, The North American Review published ‘Montezuma’s dinner,’ Lewis Henry Morgan’s devastating review of Hubert Howe Bancroft’s second volume of Native Races of the Pacific States. Morgan, who believed that Aztec social organization mimicked that of the tribes of the Great Lakes he had studied closely, sought to dispute the historical accounts of pre-conquest societies proposed by Romantic historians such as William H. Prescott. Morgan’s case against Bancroft and Prescott rested on the still well-entrenched notion that Spanish eyewitness accounts of the Conquest were a weak foundation on which to reconstruct Aztec political and social structures. Even as Morgan’s views on the Nahuas became discredited, ‘Montezuma’s dinner’ continued to be read and referenced, which may have prompted historian Charles Gibson to dispel its inaccuracies and preconceptions once and for all. Although Morgan’s review cannot teach us much about Nahua social organization or dining habits, it nevertheless represents a significant and overlooked chapter in the debate about historical evidence (including written sources and artifacts) that accompanied the configuration of history and ethnology as disciplines.