The Empire of Needle and Thread: Imperial Authority and Embroidered Buddha Images in the Tang Dynasty

Abstract

This paper studies the function of embroidered Buddha images and how and why they were made during the Tang dynasty when embroidery emerged as a major medium for Buddhist art. More specifically, it focuses on how embroidered Buddha images were ordered to be produced and bestowed on by Tang emperors. As surviving embroidery works are rare, written documents and records provide valuable information for the study of this subject. The popularization of embroidered Buddha images in early Tang was headed by the imperial power. Emperor Taizong, and his successor Gaozong each bestowed a large embroidered image to Shengguangsi 勝光寺 and Cí’ensi 慈恩寺, and ordered to perform ceremonies to honor them. Major Buddhist rituals held in the main street of Chang’an at the time also incorporated several embroidered Buddha images. In the first year of Qianfeng era, during the reign of Emperor Gaozong, a government Buddhist temple was established in each province. Buddha images embroidered in a specific iconography was distributed to each temple, and they were instrumental in establishing a uniform style of Buddhist art throughout the Tang empire. By early- to mid-seventh century, the Tang dynasty brought most of China under its rule, but was still at war with neighboring states. Consequently, colossal bronze statues that required a considerable amount of metal and men’s labor were hard to make. Embroidery was an adequate substitute as it was a form of craft that mainly relied on female labor. Initiated by the imperial power, the embroidered Buddha images became popularized and reached its pinnacle during the 8th century.