Abstract
The water particle velocity of the wave peaks is closely related to the wave load borne by offshore structures. It is of great value for marine disaster prevention to study the water particle velocity of nonlinear extreme waves represented by Freak waves. This study applies the High-order Spectral Method (HOS) numerical model to analyze the characteristics and influencing factors of the water particle velocity of Freak wave peak with two different generation mechanisms under the initial condition of a weakly modulated Stokes wave train. Our results show that the water particle velocity of the wave peak increases linearly with wave height and initial wave steepness in the evolution stage of modulation instability. While in the later stage, the relationship becomes exponential. Under the condition of similar wave heights, the deformation degrees of Freak waves with different generation mechanisms are distinct, the deformation degree of modulation instability stage is smaller than that of the later stage. The water particle velocity of the wave peaks increases with the deformation degrees. Furthermore, the correlation between wave peak height and water particle velocity is a quadratic function. This provides a theoretical basis for further understanding of nonlinear waves and the prediction of marine disasters.
Highlights
The water particle velocity caused by the wave is the key to calculate the wave force, especially the horizontal water particle velocity of the wave peaks, which directly determines the wave loads on offshore platforms, offshore wind turbine pile foundations, and other marine structures
The horizontal water particle velocity reaches the maximum at the peak and varies In this study, based on the initial condition with weakly-modulated wave train, exponentially along with the water depth
The horizontal water particle velocity reaches the maximum at the peak andofvaries wave peaks and wave height show a linear relationship in the stage dominated by exponentially along with the water depth
Summary
The water particle velocity caused by the wave is the key to calculate the wave force, especially the horizontal water particle velocity of the wave peaks, which directly determines the wave loads on offshore platforms, offshore wind turbine pile foundations, and other marine structures. Sergeeva and Slunyaev [19] used a numerical model based on the High-Order Spectral method to study the characteristics of water particle velocity of freak waves, which is consistent with Grue’s point of view. Eng. 2021, 9, 748 methods for calculating water particle velocity of extreme waves based on the comparison of experimental data and the 5th-order Stokes wave theory. The research objects of water particle velocity characteristics of freak waves are based on the theory of wave energy linear superposition of different frequency components and the theory of modulation instability. We apply the High-order Spectral method (HOS) to study the characteristics of water particle velocity of freak waves and introduce their distribution. Influencing factors of water particle velocity of the wave peaks are analyzed from four aspects: Wave height, deformation degree, peak height, and the sharpness of the wave peak
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