Abstract
This study compared the effects of prioritizing lead climbing or boulder climbing on climbing-specific strength and endurance, as well as climbing performance. Fourteen active climbers were randomized to a boulder climbing training group (BCT: age = 27.2 ± 4.4 years, body mass = 65.8 ± 5.5 kg, height = 173.3 ± 3.8 cm) or a lead-climbing training group (LCT: age = 27.7 ± 6.1 years, body mass = 70.2 ± 4.4 kg, height = 177.7 ± 4.4 cm). The groups participated in a 5-week training period consisting of 15 sessions, performing either two weekly bouldering sessions and one maintenance-session of lead-climbing (BCT) or two weekly lead-climbing sessions and one maintenance-session of bouldering (LCT). Pre- and post-training, maximal force and rate of force development (RFD) were measured during isometric pull-ups performed on a jug hold and a shallow rung, and during an isolated finger-strength test. Lead-climbing and bouldering performance were also measured, along with an intermittent forearm endurance test. The pre-to-post changes were not significantly different between the groups for any of the parameters (P = 0.062–0.710). However, both the BCT (ES = 0.30, P = 0.049) and LCT (ES = 0.41, P = 0.046) groups improved strength in the isometric pull-up performed using the jug, whereas neither group improved force in the rung condition (P = 0.054 and P = 0.084) or RFD (P = 0.060 and P = 0.070). Furthermore, climbing and bouldering performance remained unchanged in both groups (P = 0.210–0.895). The LCT group improved forearm endurance (ES = 0.55, P = 0.007), while the BCT group improved isolated finger strength (ES = 0.35, P = 0.015). In addition to isometric pull-up strength, bouldering can increase isolated finger strength while lead-climbing may improve forearm endurance. A 5-week period prioritizing one discipline can be safely implemented for advanced to intermediate climbers without risking declined performance in the non-prioritized discipline.
Highlights
In the last decades, rock climbing has become increasingly popular among athletes, recreational practitioners, and researchers
Before and after the intervention, subjects underwent the following tests: (1) maximal average force over 2 s (Favg) was measured while performing an isometric pull-up on a 23 mm rung, (2) Favg and rate of force development (RFD) were collected during an isometric pull-up using a jug hold, (3) isolated finger-grip strength was collected using a custom built apparatus, (4) forearm muscle endurance was measured using an intermittent finger flexion test to failure, (5) bouldering performance was assessed on three boulder problems, and (6) lead-climbing performance was tested on an 18 m indoor climbing wall
The analyses revealed of lead- and boulder climbing performance revealed no group × time interactions (F = 1.768, P = 0.208 and F = 0.079, P = 0.784), nor main effects for time (F = 1.949, P = 0.188 and F = 1.717, P = 0.215) or group (F = 2.127, P = 0.170 and F = 0.050, P = P = 0.784; Table 2)
Summary
Rock climbing has become increasingly popular among athletes, recreational practitioners, and researchers. Discipline-Specificity in Rock Climbing the climber to perform several moves on a sub-maximal intensity over a longer time (e.g., 2–7 min) (Mermier, 2000). Common for both climbing disciplines are high levels of mental, technical, and physiological demands (MacLeod et al, 2007; Draper et al, 2008; Magiera et al, 2013; Levernier and Laffaye, 2019a; Taylor et al, 2020). The training was unsupervised and the changes in strength and performance were self-reported, meaning the findings should be interpreted with caution
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