Abstract
Abstract Parallel implementation of an unstructured Simulating Waves Nearshore (SWAN) model with the Wave Model (WAM) cycle 4 formulation was used to evaluate the performance of a third-generation wave model over large spatial scales. Data from a network of National Data Buoy Center (NDBC) buoys and the Wave Current Information System (WAVCIS) stations were used to assess the skill of the input and output of the wave model. The simulation results reveal that the underestimation of energy in the low-frequency band (0.12–0.17 Hz) can be ameliorated if the model is calibrated using site specific in situ measurements instead of the Pierson-Moskowitz spectra. This process led to more than a 25% decrease in the root mean square error between simulated significant wave height and in situ observations. Use of the verified model for the Gulf of Mexico, with bed friction computed from grain-size distribution, as opposed to a default constant bed-friction formulation, showed that the wave height difference can excee...
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