The effect of potential fall distance on hormonal response in rock climbing

Jiří Baláš,David Giles,Leona Chrastinová,Kateřina Kárníková,Jan Kodejška,Alžběta Hlaváčková,Ladislav Vomáčko,Nick Draper

doi:10.1080/02640414.2016.1206667

Abstract

ABSTRACTThe aim of this study was to examine the effect of alterations in potential lead fall distance on the hormonal responses of rock climbers. Nine advanced female climbers completed two routes while clipping all (PRO-all) or half (PRO-½) of the fixed points of protection. Venous blood samples were analysed for total catecholamines, noradrenaline (norepinephrine), adrenaline (epinephrine), dopamine, lactate, cortisol and serotonin. Differences between the two conditions pre, immediately post and 15 min post climbing were assessed using a 2 × 3 repeated measures ANOVA. All hormones and blood lactate concentrations increased significantly (P < 0.05) immediately post climb, except for cortisol. Peak cortisol concentrations did not occur until 15 min post ascent. Further, significant interactions between climbing and clipping conditions were found for total catecholamines (890% of basal concentration in PRO-½ vs. 568% in PRO-all), noradrenaline (794% vs. 532%) and dopamine (500% vs. 210%). There were no significant interactions for adrenaline (1920% vs. 1045%), serotonin (150% vs. 127%) or lactate (329% vs. 279%). The study showed a greater catecholamine response with an increase in potential lead fall distance. The most pronounced increases seen in catecholamine concentration were reported for dopamine and noradrenaline.

Highlights

Lead climbing requires considerable physical skill, and mental resilience
Dopamine concentration increased by 210% and 500% in PRO-all and PRO-1⁄2, respectively. When this result is considered with the change in concentration of the other catecholamines this study shows that plasma dopamine reflect physical stress and stress due to the fear of falling, and psychological stress
The current study provides new insight regarding alterations in catecholamine concentrations during indoor sport climbing, and has made several advancements on previous research: 1) an increase in catecholamine concentrations has been found when climbing routes with greater distances between fixed points of protection; and 2) plasma cortisol concentrations do not appear to indicate levels of stress related to a fear of fall in climbing

Summary

Introduction

Lead climbing requires considerable physical skill, and mental resilience. Both sport and traditional disciplines of the sport require participants to ascend routes protected either by periodically spaced pre-installed bolts, or intermittent hand placed protection. In the event of a fall, the climber will travel some distance before being arrested by a trailing rope, attached to the points of protection, held by the belayer. The length of the fall depends on the distance between the climber and the last piece of protection and the amount of rope in the system. Differences in the method of protecting sport and traditional climbs have consequences for the potential for injury. The potential for taking falls, and an associated fear of injury, is often a source of anxiety for climbers (MacLeod 2010). High levels of anxiety can have a detrimental effect on climbing performance (Hardy & Hutchinson 2007; Pijpers et al 2003)

Objectives

Methods

Results

Discussion

Conclusion