The effect of finishing on the mechanical and thermal properties of wool fabrics. Part1‐the properties of piece‐dyed fabrics

Abstract

Changes in the handle‐related deformation properties of wool fabric following piece dyeing were found to be related to the set imparted by the dyeing operation, and resulted primarily from dimensional changes in the fabric. When dyeing imparted large amounts of set to the wool, increased contraction during drying resulted in a heavier, more extensible fabric. Inhibiting set by dyeing at low pH, or by dyeing in the presence of an oxidising agent or cross‐linker, reduced the effect. Objectively measured fabric surface properties and subjective assessment of smoothness were little affected by the conditions of dyeing and were far more dependent on the dry‐finishing method used to set the fabric and, to a lesser extent, on the method used to pre‐set the fabric prior to dyeing. The effect of extended dyeing on the mechanical properties of the fabric depended not only on the pH of dyeing but also on the nature of the dyeing machine.