The effect of finishing on the mechanical and thermal properties of wool fabrics. Part 2‐milling and interactions in piece dyeing

Abstract

The firmness, fullness and smoothness of wool fabrics all increase as a result of milling. These changes in handle are accompanied by large changes in the physical, mechanical and thermal properties of the fabric. The weight and thickness of the fabrics used in this work increased at a relatively constant rate with milling. However, the stiffness‐related mechanical properties (shear, bending) increased slowly at first and then more rapidly at higher levels of milling. The objectively measured surface and thermal properties, on the other hand, changed rapidly at first, coming to limiting values, similar to those measured on a wool felt. The implication for the finisher is that short milling times are appropriate where changes in the surface‐related properties of the fabric are sought (smoothness, warmness, softness) but longer times are required for an increase in fabric firmness. There is also a milling time where control of both mechanical and surface properties can be most easily achieved. Subsequent piece dyeing significantly reduced the stiffness of milled fabric but had only a small effect on the surface and physical properties.