The development and application of a novel hazard scoring tool for assessing impacts of cosmetic ingredients on aquatic ecosystems: a case study of rinse-off cosmetics.

Abstract

Cosmetic industries have been committed to promoting less hazardous products to reduce the environmental impacts of cosmetic ingredients. This requires identifying safer cosmetic ingredients for developing cosmetic formulations that are less harmful to the environment. However, one of the challenges in developing eco-friendly cosmetics relies on integrating all environmental hazard information of cosmetic ingredients to select the most eco-friendly ones (i.e., the least harmful ingredients to the aquatic environment). Thus, we developed a hazard scoring tool (IARATM matrix), which integrates data on biodegradation, bioaccumulation, and acute aquatic toxicity, providing a hazard index to classify cosmetic ingredients (raw materials) into categories of environmental hazard (low, moderate, high, or very high). The classification of IARATM was based on parameters established by C2C - Cradle to Cradle, US Environmental Protection Agency (US EPA), and European Regulation 1272/2008, considering the most conservative values of each source. The Leopold matrix was employed as a model for the tool, using a numerical scale from 0 to 6 (lowest to highest environmental hazard). According to the IARATM , we have successfully demonstrated that UV filter ingredients have the highest environmental hazard (EH) out of 41 cosmetic ingredients commonly used for rinse-off products. Besides UV filters, Triclosan (bactericide) and Dimethicone (emollient) presented the second-highest EH for aquatic ecosystems, while humectants presented the lowest hazard index. By applying IARATM in the study case of rinse-off products, we have estimated that the aquatic hazard of cosmetic products can be reduced by 46% by identifying less hazardous ingredients and combining them into a cosmetic formulation. In summary, the IARATM tool enables estimating the environmental hazard of cosmetic ingredients, provides safer products and helps achieve sustainability for cosmetic products. This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved. Integr Environ Assess Manag 2023;00:0-0. © 2023 SETAC.