Abstract
The ability to provide infrasound estimates of breaking ocean wave height and period in shallow reefs, steep rocky coastlines, and sand beaches has been demonstrated in previous work. Yet defining the source process and isolating the source pressure function remained elusive because of ambiguity introduced by complex coastlines and multiple breaker zones. Due to the steep bathymetry and the its proximity to land, the Temae reef in the northeast coast of Moorea island, French Polynesia, provided a well constrained experimental environment where individual breaking waves could be identified and recorded. Synchronous wave height, infrasonic, seismic, and visual recordings of individual waves breaking against the shallow reef ledge were made and correlated. We characterize a possible source mechanism for surf infrasound and demonstrate the capability to acoustically track alongshore traveling (peeling) plunging waves. We also introduce preliminary results on remote infrasonic monitoring of the surf zone in the North Shore of Hawaii during the 2006‐07 Winter high surf season.
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