The Changing Geography and Fortunes of Dublin's Haute Cuisine Restaurants, 1958–2008

Abstract

This paper considers the changing geography and fortunes of Dublin's haute cuisine restaurants over the last half century, placing them within both a national and international context. Ireland's place within the global story of food is discussed, and the paper illustrates links between Dublin and European and global trends. The paper shows that in the 1950s, Dublin could be seen as the gastronomic capital of the British Isles. The leading restaurateurs are briefly profiled, and the decline, stagnation, and gradual rebirth of Dublin's haute cuisine restaurants over the 1958–2008 period are charted and discussed. The paper combines data from the Central Statistics Office, the Egon Ronay Guide, and the Michelin Guide, with oral histories from leading chefs, waiters and restaurateurs to provide a robust account of the story of haute cuisine in Dublin restaurants for the last five decades.