Abstract
Skin ageing has many manifestations such as wrinkles, dryness, hyperpigmentation, and uneven skin tone. Extrinsic and intrinsic factors, especially solar ultraviolet light (UVB), contribute to skin ageing; its main features are brown spots, alterations in melanin pigmentation, and a decrease in collagen and hyaluronic acid linked to oxidative stress. Several studies showed that topical products containing ingredients with antioxidant activity can reduce oxidative damage; to provide a maximum anti-ageing effect to the skin, topical products can combine various ingredients. C-SHOT SERUM contains a combination of two molecules with a proven anti-ageing activity: a high percentage (30%) of a more stable vitamin C derivative, 3-O-ethyl-l-ascorbic acid, and lactic acid (1%). The product showed a high biocompatibility, assessed through an MTT assay on keratinocytes and on Reconstructed Human Epidermis (RHE, SkinEthic); the anti-ageing activity was demonstrated on human dermal fibroblasts and keratinocytes by a statistically significant increase in collagen production and a reduction of a UVB-induced DNA damage marker (γ-H2AX histone), indicating DNA protection. Moreover, a depigmenting activity, shown by a highly significant decrease in melanin content on treated Reconstructed Human Pigmented Epidermis (RHPE), was assessed. According to the data of our study, the tested product contrasts the effect of skin ageing and irregular pigmentation due to the physiological decline of the skin.
Highlights
We investigated the potential of a cosmetic product containing concentrated 3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid at 30% in combination with lactic acid at 1%, to contrast the effect of skin ageing and irregular pigmentation due to the normal physiological decline of the skin on both in vitro cell cultures and 3D reconstructed tissue models
The Reconstructed Human Epidermis (RHE) model (EPISKIN Laboratories, Lyon, France) was supplied by SkinEthicTM laboratories; it is a reconstructed tissue from normal human keratinocytes grown for 17 days in a chemically defined medium
Samples were heated at 100 °C for 45 min, Regarding melanin content, epidermal tanned tissues were removed from the insert centrifuged, and melanin extract was measured by spectrophotometry at a 500 nm waveby cutting out the polycarbonate filter and plunged into 400 μL of Solvable Solution length using a synthetic melanin calibration curve as reference
Summary
Vitamin C has shown its anti-ageing activity already from use at 5% in cosmetic formulations; to be effective, topical application requires pH levels below four to allow the delivery across the epidermal layer to be mediated by specific sodium-dependent vitamin C transporters (SVCT1 and SVCT2). Both transporters are hydrophobic membrane proteins that co-transport sodium, driving the uptake of vitamin C; SVCT1 is a low affinity transporter closed to epithelial cells in the small intestine and kidney, while SVCT2 is a high affinity transporter ubiquitous in the cells of the body. We investigated the potential of a cosmetic product containing concentrated 3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid at 30% in combination with lactic acid at 1%, to contrast the effect of skin ageing and irregular pigmentation due to the normal physiological decline of the skin on both in vitro cell cultures and 3D reconstructed tissue models
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