Textile Industry 5.0? Fiber Computing Coming Soon to a Fabric Near You

The textile industry has an eventful history, starting as a leading industry during the industrial revolution to a “quintessential low-tech industry in the modern era” (von Tunzelmann/Acha 2005: 425). Particularly the relative simple technologies and division of labor in the apparel industry allowed many emerging economies to participate in this industry (cf. ibid. 426). In this respect, the textile industry is one of the most affected industries from changes of market internationalizations (e.g. Konrad 2001: 389). On the other hand, this industry has shown the ability to revolve in new technologies in several times of its industrial life-cycle (cf. von Tunzelmann/Acha ibid.). Examples of the industry’s renewal are the development of artificial fibers at the beginning of the 20th century or synthetic fibers in the middle of the century (ibid.), and recently the launch of smart textiles.

Cotton ( Gossypium hirsutum L.) fiber is a vital source of nature fibers in textile industry and an ideal model for studying plant cell development. Phospholipids and sphingolipids, which are derived from very long‐chain fatty acids (, are essential for maintaining fiber cell membrane integrity and serving as fiber development signals. To elucidate the multifaceted roles of lipids in fiber development, this review synthesizes recent advances in understanding the lipid composition of fiber cells, their functional roles, and the regulatory mechanisms mediated by the interaction with phytohormones and proteins. Additionally, this review discusses strategies of modifying phospholipid metabolites to improve cotton fiber yield and quality.

Cotton is an important source of natural fibre used in the textile industry and the productivity of the crop is adversely affected by drought stress. High throughput transcriptomic analyses were used to identify genes involved in fibre development. However, not much information is available on cotton genome response in developing fibres under drought stress. In the present study a genome wide transcriptome analysis was carried out to identify differentially expressed genes at various stages of fibre growth under drought stress. Our study identified a number of genes differentially expressed during fibre elongation as compared to other stages. High level up-regulation of genes encoding for enzymes involved in pectin modification and cytoskeleton proteins was observed at fibre initiation stage. While a large number of genes encoding transcription factors (AP2-EREBP, WRKY, NAC and C2H2), osmoprotectants, ion transporters and heat shock proteins and pathways involved in hormone (ABA, ethylene and JA) biosynthesis and signal transduction were up-regulated and genes involved in phenylpropanoid and flavonoid biosynthesis, pentose and glucuronate interconversions and starch and sucrose metabolism pathways were down-regulated during fibre elongation. This study showed that drought has relatively less impact on fibre initiation but has profound effect on fibre elongation by down-regulating important genes involved in cell wall loosening and expansion process. The comprehensive transcriptome analysis under drought stress has provided valuable information on differentially expressed genes and pathways during fibre development that will be useful in developing drought tolerant cotton cultivars without compromising fibre quality.

Cotton is the major renewable source of fibers used worldwide in the textile industry. The basic understanding of cotton fiber development is still in its infancy; however, in recent years new information about genes controlling cotton fiber development have become available. This chapter provides an update on the current understanding of cotton fiber differentiation and elongation. Earlier genetic studies of fiber mutants are described here that identified genetic loci involved in the fuzz fiber development and suggested that fuzz and lint fiber share common regulators since interactions of fuzzless loci produce a fibreless seed phenotype. Recent discoveries of the causative mutations for N1 and Xu142fl mutant lines established a central role of MIXTA MYB transcription factors in fuzz and lint fiber development. A preliminary model of early cotton fiber development has been proposed, and a network of interactions between transcription factors are discussed in this chapter.

Characterization of the early fiber development gene, Ligon-lintless 1 (Li1), using microarray

BackgroundRamie (Boehmeria nivea L.), popularly known as “China grass”, is one of the oldest crops in China and the second most important fiber crop in terms of area sown. Ramie fiber, extracted from the plant bast, is important in the textile industry. However, the molecular mechanism of ramie fiber development remains unknown.ResultsA whole sequencing run was performed on the 454 GS FLX + platform using four separately pooled parts of ramie bast. This generated 1,030,057 reads with an average length of 457 bp. Among the 58,369 unigenes (13,386 contigs and 44,983 isotigs) that were generated through de novo assembly, 780 were differentially expressed. As a result, 13 genes that belong to the cellulose synthase gene family (four), the expansin gene family (three) and the xyloglucan endotransglucosylase/hydrolase (XTH) gene family (six) were up-regulated in the top part of the bast, which was in contrast to the other three parts. The identification of these 13 concurrently up-regulated unigenes indicated that the early stage (represented by the top part of the bast) might be important for the molecular regulation of ramie fiber development. Further analysis indicated that four of the 13 unigenes from the expansin (two) and XTH (two) families shared a coincident expression pattern during the whole growth season, which implied they were more relevant to ramie fiber development (fiber quality, etc.) during the different seasons than the other genes.ConclusionsTo the best of our knowledge, this study is the first to characterize ramie fiber development at different developmental stages. The identified transcripts will improve our understanding of the molecular mechanisms involved in ramie fiber development. Moreover, the identified differentially expressed genes will accelerate molecular research on ramie fiber growth and the breeding of ramie with better fiber yields and quality.Electronic supplementary materialThe online version of this article (doi:10.1186/1471-2164-15-919) contains supplementary material, which is available to authorized users.

Cashmere, also known as pashmina, is derived from the secondary hair follicles of Cashmere/Changthangi goats. Renowned as the world's most luxurious natural fiber, it holds significant economic value in the textile industry. This comprehensive review enhances our understanding of the complex biological processes governing cashmere/pashmina fiber development and quality, enabling advancements in selective breeding and fiber enhancement strategies. The review specifically examines the molecular determinants influencing fiber development, with an emphasis on keratins (KRTs) and keratin-associated proteins (KRTAPs). It also explores the roles of key molecular pathways, including Wnt, Notch, BMP, NF-kappa B, VEGF, cAMP, PI3K-Akt, ECM, cell adhesion, Hedgehog, MAPK, Ras, JAK-STAT, TGF-β, mTOR, melanogenesis, FoxO, Hippo, and Rap1 signaling. Understanding these intricate molecular cascades provides valuable insights into the mechanisms orchestrating hair follicle growth, further advancing the biology of this coveted natural fiber. Expanding multi-omics approaches will enhance breeding precision and deepen our understanding of molecular pathways influencing cashmere production. Future research should address critical gaps, such as the impact of environmental factors, epigenetic modifications, and functional studies of genetic variants. Collaboration among breeders, researchers, and policymakers is essential for translating genomic advancements into practical applications. Such efforts can promote sustainable practices, conserve biodiversity, and ensure the long-term viability of high-quality cashmere production. Aligning genetic insights with conservation strategies will support the sustainable growth of the cashmere industry while preserving its economic and ecological value.

Breeding Next-Generation Naturally Colored Cotton.

Cotton fibers, as natural fibers, are widely used in the textile industry in the world. In order to find genes involved in fiber development, a cDNA (designated as GhMADS11) encoding a novel MADS protein with 151 amino acid residues was isolated from cotton fiber cDNA library. The deduced protein shares high similarity with Arabidopsis AP1 and AGL8 in MADS domain. However, the GhMADS11 protein (being absent of the partial K-domain and normal C-terminus) is shorter than AP1 and AGL8 by the reason of gene frameshift mutation during evolution. The experimental results revealed that GhMADS11 was not a transcriptional activator, and it did not form homodimer. GhMADS11 transcripts were specifically accumulated in elongating fibers, but no or very low signals of its expression were detected in other tissues of cotton. Overexpression of GhMADS11 in fission yeast promotes atypical cell elongation by 1.4-2.0-fold. Furthermore, morphological analysis indicated that the transformed cells expressing GhMADS11m, a MIKC-type derivative of GhMADS11 by the site-directed mutation, displayed the same phenotype as that of the transformed cells with GhMADS11. The concurrence of these data sets suggested that GhMADS11 protein may function in fiber cell elongation, and its MADS domain and partial K-domain are sufficient for this function.

Cotton (Gossypium hirsutum) is a major global natural fiber crop used in the textile industry. Although white colored cotton remains the most popular form of cultivated cotton, colored varieties could replace chemically dyed fibers and provide more environmental friendly alternatives. In order to investigate the role of miRNAs in fiber color, we selected white and brown cotton varieties for comparative investigations. Through small RNA sequencing, a number of known miRNA families were discovered (74 in white cotton and 61 in brown cotton, with 44 shared) in which 11 miRNA families were significantly elevated in brown cotton variety. Functional enrichment and network analysis of target genes of these miRNAs revealed their regulatory role in secondary metabolite biosynthesis pathway, particularly the flavonoids pathway, which are known to be associated with fiber coloration. Pigmentation and developmental-related miRNA members such as miR396e-5p, miR167l, and miR1446 were also significantly enriched. Real-time PCR results suggest the regulatory role of miRNAs in these two cotton varieties. Furthermore, 30 and 25 novel miRNAs were also identified in white and brown cotton, respectively. Our findings also show miRNAs associated with fiber coloration and development through the intricate networks of miRNA and targets. Understanding these systems may provide novel insights on improving the fiber color and quality.

Fiber quality traits, especially fiber strength, length, and micronaire (FS, FL, and FM), have been recognized as critical fiber attributes in the textile industry, while the lint percentage (LP) was an important indicator to evaluate the cotton lint yield. So far, the genetic mechanism behind the formation of these traits is still unclear. Quantitative trait loci (QTL) identification and candidate gene validation provide an effective methodology to uncover the genetic and molecular basis of FL, FS, FM, and LP. A previous study identified three important QTL/QTL cluster loci, harboring at least one of the above traits on chromosomes A01, A07, and D12 via a recombinant inbred line (RIL) population derived from a cross of Lumianyan28 (L28) × Xinluzao24 (X24). A secondary segregating population (F2) was developed from a cross between L28 and an RIL, RIL40 (L28 × RIL40). Based on the population, genetic linkage maps of the previous QTL cluster intervals on A01 (6.70-10.15 Mb), A07 (85.48-93.43 Mb), and D12 (0.40-1.43 Mb) were constructed, which span 12.25, 15.90, and 5.56 cM, with 2, 14, and 4 simple sequence repeat (SSR) and insertion/deletion (Indel) markers, respectively. QTLs of FL, FS, FM, and LP on these three intervals were verified by composite interval mapping (CIM) using WinQTL Cartographer 2.5 software via phenotyping of F2 and its derived F2:3 populations. The results validated the previous primary QTL identification of FL, FS, FM, and LP. Analysis of the RNA-seq data of the developing fibers of L28 and RIL40 at 10, 20, and 30 days post anthesis (DPA) identified seven differentially expressed genes (DEGs) as potential candidate genes. qRT-PCR verified that five of them were consistent with the RNA-seq result. These genes may be involved in regulating fiber development, leading to the formation of FL, FS, FM, and LP. This study provides an experimental foundation for further exploration of these functional genes to dissect the genetic mechanism of cotton fiber development.

Zinc finger-homeodomain (ZHD) genes encode a family of plant-specific transcription factors that not only participate in the regulation of plant growth and development but also play an important role in the response to abiotic stress. The ZHD gene family has been studied in several model plants, including Solanum lycopersicum, Zea mays, Oryza sativa, and Arabidopsis thaliana. However, a comprehensive study of the genes of the ZHD family and their roles in fiber development and pigmentation in upland cotton has not been completed. To address this gap, we selected a brown fiber cultivar for our study; brown color in cotton is one of the most desired colors in the textile industry. The natural colored fibers require less processing and little dying, thereby eliminating dye costs and chemical residues. Using bioinformatics approaches, we identified 37 GhZHD genes from Gossypium hirsutum and then divided these genes into seven groups based on their phylogeny. The GhZHD genes were mostly conserved in each subfamily with minor variations in motif distribution and gene structure. These genes were largely distributed on 19 of the 26 upland cotton chromosomes. Among the Gossypium genomes, the paralogs and orthologs of the GhZHD genes were identified and further characterized. Furthermore, among the paralogs, we observed that the ZHD family duplications in Gossypium genomes (G. hirsutum, G. arboreum, and G. raimondii) were probably derived from segmental duplication or genome-wide duplication (GWD) events. Through a combination of qRT-PCR and proanthocyanidins (PA) accumulation analyses in brown cotton fibers, we concluded that the candidate genes involved in early fiber development and fiber pigment synthesis include the following: GhZHD29, GhZHD35, GhZHD30, GhZHD31, GhZHD11, GhZHD27, GhZHD18, GhZHD15, GhZHD16, GhZHD22, GhZHD6, GhZHD33, GhZHD13, GhZHD5, and GhZHD23. This study delivers insights into the evolution of the GhZHD genes in brown cotton, serves as a valuable resource for further studies, and identifies the conditions necessary for improving the quality of brown cotton fiber.

Background: Green cotton fibers (GCFs) are valued for their natural coloration and eco-friendly properties, but their pigmentation mechanisms remain unclear, limiting their wider application in the textile industry. This study aims to uncover the key regulatory genes and metabolic pathways involved in GCF coloration. Methods: We conducted transcriptome and metabolome profiling of green and white cotton fibers at different developmental stages to identify differences in gene expression and metabolite accumulation related to pigmentation. Results: Transcript analysis revealed significant enrichment in α-linolenic acid metabolism, flavonoid biosynthesis and phenylpropane metabolism pathways during late pigmentation stages. Key genes in methyl jasmonate (MeJA) biosynthesis and flavonoid biosynthesis (LOX, JMT, ANS, C4H, DFR, F3H) were upregulated. The MYB transcription factor showed the most significant increase during fiber development. Metabolomic analysis identified 12 metabolites that accumulated specifically in green fibers. MeJA treatment promoted the expression of MYB genes and flavonoid biosynthesis genes (DFRs, ANSs, F3H, C4H), as well as the accumulation of Luteolin, Gallocatechin, Cyanidin and Chrysanthemum metabolites. Conclusions: Our study demonstrates that MeJA-mediated flavonoid biosynthesis, regulated by MYB transcription factors, is the central pathway controlling pigment deposition in GCFs. These findings provide valuable insights for developing improved colored cotton materials.

The United Nations has envisaged a sustainable development plan for the year 2030 which initiates 17 sustainability development goals (SDGs) with objectives that promote all round development. This forum encourages contributions from all sectors—governments, industrial, civil organizations, public and private sectors—as opportunities for the fulfillment of these goals. The textile and fashion industries have been very popular in the extensive use of natural resources accompanied by waste and waste products that tend to pollute the environment causing hazards to the living organisms in the planet. Businesses and brands in the textile and apparel sector are earnestly working on aligning their production and management on the basis of sustainability, the pinnacle being the sustainability development goals. This chapter deals with the sustainable management and effective use of natural resources (SDG 12—Target 12.2)—water, energy and soil for the development of sustainable textile fibers and certification methodologies for sustainable reporting (SDG 12—Target 12.6). This can be achieved by sound management of chemicals and wastes occurring in the production cycle or life cycle of a product (SDG 12—Target 12.4). Green productivity in sustainable manufacturing calls for improved resource efficiency and waste reductions by implementing a cleaner manufacturing strategy. The specialized long value chain of the textile and fashion industry is poised to address the sustainability challenge to achieve the economic, social and environment development goals.

With the growth of the world population and the improvement of living standards, the demand for global textiles has been increasing rapidly. Although natural fibers are affected by the development of synthetic fibers, wool still occupies a certain share in the textile industry and is one of the most indispensable materials. However, many postindustrial and post-consumer waste wool textiles will be produced. The conventional treatment method is landfill or incineration, which is not conducive to economic, environmental, and social development. To counter this problem, many measures and methods have been adapted for the reuse of waste resources. This article provides a review on waste wool recycling and summarizes two main directions for reuse. Waste wool can be used for thermal and sound insulation materials, reinforced composite materials, or adsorbent materials to purify contaminated water which rely on fiber properties. Keratin extracted from waste wool can be applied for the production of high-value products such as functional finishing agents, organic fertilizers, regenerated protein films/fibers, or smart wearable electronic devices. Meanwhile, future development trends and the demand of waste wool recycling are also discussed. Continuous research and exploration are still needed for effective management of waste wool resources and to turn them into useful and valuable materials or products.